Daes' 2001 Dodge Stratus Coupe

This is how the car sits right now. I will be rebuilding it over the next few months. Just a minor fender bender.

(IMG:http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h268/daes_venge/01strat.jpg)

I have a few options. I can replace the front end with the original 2001-2002 style. Shown below.

(IMG:http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h268/daes_venge/01-02stratus.jpg)

Or, I can update it to the 2003-2005 style. Shown below.

(IMG:http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h268/daes_venge/03-04stratus.jpg)

The rear of the car looks like this which is the 2001-2002 style.

(IMG:http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h268/daes_venge/01-02rear.jpg)

I will be updating the rear to the 2003-2005 style. Shown below.

(IMG:http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h268/daes_venge/03-05rear.jpg)


I am set on updating the rear to the later style but am undecided on the front. Opinions?

OEM Black door panels

OEM black pair of door panels removed from a 98 or 99 Eclipse. These are all black except for the armrest parts which are gray cloth which can easily be recovered to match whatever your interior theme might be. Missing driver side switch bezel.

$140 for the pair plus shipping.

Pics will be posted within a few days.

AutoCheck History Reports (Carfax)

I have a current subscription with AutoCheck. Only 8 more reports available!

Like Carfax, but better!

$3.00 per report. I purchased a package of 20 reports for $59.99. I'm only asking for what I paid. I'm not doing this to make money. If you think $3.00 is too much, please walk away.

Click the following link to speed up the process. Select the quantity. After sending payment, send me a pm with your VIN. Also the full name and email address associated with your PayPal account. I will then forward the email with a link to download your report to your PayPal email address only!

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How-To: Properly tap into wires

This is the proper way to tap into a wire. It's called a lineman's knot.

Remove some insulation from the wire that you're tapping into:
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/tn_gallery_8203_469_295.jpg)


Poke through the center of the exposed wire:
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/tn_gallery_8203_469_25998.jpg)


Strip the insulation off of the end of the wire that is being used as the tap. Put it through the hole of the wire that is being tapped:
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/tn_gallery_8203_469_8284.jpg)


Wrap the second wire around the first:
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/tn_gallery_8203_469_3661.jpg)


Solder it if possible and then tape it tight or use heat shrink tubing:
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/tn_gallery_8203_469_15226.jpg)


All done. It provides a much better and longer lasting connection than quick splices and easily tucks back into factory wire looms.

Credit: quick92rs from club3g.

How-To: Swap Out Your Automatic Transmission To A Manual Transmission On A 420a

This page details the conversion of a 1995-1999 Eagle Talon/Mitsubishi Eclipse/Dodge Avenger/Chrysler Sebring with 420A engine from an automatic to manual transmission. This page is by no means comprehensive, but it will help the reader visualize the steps required for this conversion. You will probably get most of your parts from a junkyard, so we will start by showing pictures of the major components.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NCT3501.jpg)

NVT-350 manual transmission with shift arms
Speed sensor with gear (probably installed on transmission)
Speed sensor plug with 6" of wire
Reverse sensor
Reverse sensor plug with 6” of wire
Three quarts of MOPAR MS9417 transmission fluid (not shown)

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3502.jpg)

Clutch (preferably new)

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3503.jpg)

Throw out bearing (new)
Clutch fork

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3504.jpg)

Driver’s side transmission mount (The only real difference between the A/T and M/T mount is the height of the pin)

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3505.jpg)

Rear roll stopper bracket (notice the difference between the A/T and M/T bracket)

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3506.jpg)

Driver’s side transmission mount bracket

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3507.jpg)

Shift cable bracket

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3508.jpg)

Clutch slave cylinder

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3509.jpg)

Flex line and clips
Lower hard line

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35010.jpg)

Lower hard line bracket

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35011.jpg)

Clutch master cylinder with nuts
Rubber line with clamp
Upper hard line
Bracket for upper hard line (not shown)
clutch fluid reservoir with cap, bracket, and bolts
Two 12oz bottles of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid (not shown)

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35012.jpg)

Clutch pedal assembly with spring and bolts
Clutch interlock switch
Clutch interlock plug with 6" of wire

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35013.jpg)

Brake pedal assembly with spring and bolts
Brake light switch
Brake light plug with 6" of wire

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35014.jpg)

Shifter assembly with bolts and rubber bushings
Shifter boot
Shift knob

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35015.jpg)

Shift cables with bushings and clips
Rubber grommet and plate (through firewall)

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT3501.jpg)

Gauge cluster from M/T car
ECU from M/T car of same year (not shown)

Now that you have all of the parts together, let's run though the removal of automatic transmission parts and installation of manual transmission parts. I will not go through every little detail. I am assuming that you are familiar with removing/installing interior panels and brackets.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35016.jpg)

Pull out the center console to expose the A/T shifter. Disconnect the brake/shift interlock, key/shift interlock, and shift cables. I think there is a light bulb for the shifter that must also be disconnected. Four bolts hold the A/T shifter assembly to the body. Remove those and the shifter should come out.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35017.jpg)

Here are the brake/shift interlock, key/shift interlock, and shift cables. The interlock cables run inside the car and can be easily removed.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35018.jpg)

Remove the cover around the steering column. Be careful as the bottom piece is bolted to the steeting column and the top piece is snapped into that. You should find a cable running into the key cylinder. Remove the screws and take off the cover. That will allow you to remove the key/shift interlock cable. Replace the cover using the screws. The brake pedal has the brake/shift interlock cable clipped to it. Unclip that and pull the cable off. Unhook the brake light switch plug from the brake pedal assembly. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin that connects the brake master cylinder to the brake pedal. Unhook the return spring from the brake pedal. Remove the four nuts and two bolts that hold the brake pedal assembly in place. Pull the A/T brake pedal assembly out.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35019.jpg)

The shift cable runs through the firewall to the transmission. A rubber boot keeps water out. You will need to remove two nuts that hold a plate that holds the boot to the firewall. Move on to the transmission and unclip the shift cable. That should allow you to remove the shift cable from the car.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35020.jpg)

Now you need to drill holes in the firewall to allow installation of the clutch master cylinder. You should find that the sheetmetal on the interior side of the firewall already has an opening for the master cylinder. You need to pick a hole saw that matches this opening. Centerpunch and drill that opening. Now you can mark where the bolts should pass through the firewall. Centerpunch and drill those holes. The clutch master cylinder and clutch pedal assembly each have one stud. You put them together, sandwiching the firewall in between. Tighten the nut on the master cylinder as shown.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35021.jpg)

Tighten the nut and bolts on the clutch pedal assembly as shown. There should be one nut and two bolts on this side of the firewall. Insert the clevis and cotter pin to connect the master cylinder to the pedal. Hook the return spring from the pedal to the body. While you are down there, you might as well wire up the clutch/starter interlock switch. The clutch switch plug should have one green wire with black stripe and one solid black wire. Run a 16-18 gage wire from the green wire with black stripe down to the starter relay and connect it to the small black wire with yellow stripe. The starter relay should be bolted down to the floor under the HVAC controls. Be sure you connect to the small black wire with yellow stripe as there is a large one on the relay as well. Run a 16-18 gage wire from the solid black wire on the clutch switch plug to a good body ground. Without this, you will not be able to start the car.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35022.jpg)

Now you can install the M/T brake pedal assembly. It goes in just like the A/T assembly you removed. Tighten the four nuts and two bolts as shown. Insert the clevis and cotter pins to connect the master cylinder to the pedal. Attach the return spring to the body. The plug for the stop light switch is the same between the A/T and M/T. Insert the plug into the stop light switch. If you forget this, you will have no brake lights and no cruise control.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35023.jpg)

You can install the M/T shifter assembly now. Make sure the rubber bushings on the shifter assembly are in tact. Replace any damaged ones. Tighten the bolts as shown. Run the two shift cables under the HVAC/Radio and out the pass-through in the fire-wall. Seat the rubber boot in the pass-through, install the mounting plate, and tighten the nuts. Clip the cables into the base and fit the cable ends over the pins on the shifter arms. Make sure the bushings in the cable ends are in tact. Insert the cotter pins and bend them over. You should probably resist the temptation to put the center console back in and cover up the shifter assembly. Move out to the engine bay.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35024.jpg)

Start by unplugging the electrical connectors on the automatic transmission. Don't cut the wires up yet. Just pull them out of the way. You should also remove the battery and battery tray. Your airbox, intake pipe, and anything else above the transmission needs to come out.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35025.jpg)

If the car isn't already on jack stands with the rear wheels chocked, do it now. Get under the front end and loosen the through bolt on the front roll stopper. Loosen the four bolts that hold the center support member and pull it out. It is smart to leave one bolt loosely holding each end until you are ready to remove the complete center member.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35026.jpg)

Remove the front wheels. Then, remove the bolts on the lower arms of the front suspension. Also remove the through bolt on the damper fork.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35027.jpg)

Now you should be able to swing the front hub/spindle assembly out to lightly pull on the axles. Now would be a good time to drain the fluid from the automatic transmission. You can do this by cutting the rubber lines on the transmission cooler and letting the fluid run into an oil pan.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35028.jpg)

Use a pry bar to pop each axle hub out of the transmission Push the axles out of the way. You do not need to remove them as they will work with the manual transmission.

(IMG:http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/Black_Cottons_Photos/CamGearInstall/NVT350Swap/NVT35029.jpg)

Remove the two small brackets joining the engine to the transmission. Then, remove the bolts holding the access cover to the transmission and remove it.