Disturbing Motorsports V6 5spd Manual Trans Swap

After over a year of work and testing and with much anticipation, Disturbing Motorsports has completed our V6 Dodge Avenger 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap. Our prototype car has been daily driven, logging several thousand miles, trouble free.
We are offering this swap in house only at this time.

Used Parts needed for the swap
• A543 manual transmission
• 4cyl 5spd Avenger Manual Gear Shifter Assembly with Shift Cables
• 4cyl 5spd Avenger Clutch and Brake Pedal Assembly
• 4cyl 5spd Avenger Clutch Fluid Reservoir Container
• 4cyl 5spd Avenger Shifter Boot and Center Console Trim

New Parts included in the swap
• Clutch Master Cylinder
• Clutch Slave Cylinder
• Flywheel
• Flywheel Bolts
• Pressure Plate Bolts
• Speed Sensor

Custom Parts included in the swap
• Crank Trigger Wheel and CPS mount
• Custom Motor Mounts
• Custom Built Intermediate Shaft
• Speed Sensor Calibration Unit

Choice of Clutches
• Stock Replacement Clutch
• Stage 1 clutch upgrade $40 up-charge over the stock clutch
• Stage 2 ceramic race clutch (4-puck) $190 up-charge over the stock clutch

Optional Limited Slip Differential Upgrades (these include new differential bearings)
• OBX LSD Differential $575 up-charge
• Quaife LSD Differential $1125 up-charge


Final Pricing including installation labor **
• Basic Install Stock Clutch $3125.00
• Stage 1 Stage 1 Clutch $3165.00
• Stage 1+ Stage 1 Clutch + OBX LSD $3740.00
• Stage 1.5+ Stage 1 Clutch + Quaife LSD $4290.00
• Stage 2+ Stage 2 Clutch + OBX LSD $3890.00
• Stage 2.5+ Stage 2 Clutch + Quaife LSD $4440.00

** Pricing may vary based on the “Used Parts” availability and cost. We have estimated and included these parts at a value of $500 for all the “used parts”. If you want to locate and supply these parts to us at the time of the swap, that is acceptable, but we can not guarantee any used parts that are supplied to us in poor or questionable condition. If we source these parts for you we will do our best to find the best parts at the best price but keep in mind pricing could vary (up or down) due to the price of these parts.




SPECIAL THANKS GOES OUT TO ALAIN95I4 FOR HIS NEVER ENDING RESEARCH AND DETERMINATION TO HELP MOVE THIS PROJECT ALONG FROM THE BEGINNING ALL THE WAY TO THE VERY LAST STEP.

97 Dodge Avenger 2.2 Stroker Turbo

If i can find a good buyer for this car and get a good price out of it then i have decided i would like to move on. I have my hands in so many other projects right now that i do not have the time or ambition to mess with this car (although i still sometimes have the desire) and fix the few things that need fixed.

Year - 1997
Model - Dodge Avenger ES
Mileage on car - 143,000
Milage on engine - less than 3000
Price - $7500 OBO

Engine and Turbo build and Trans

Fully built 2.2L Stroker
Hahn Turbo kit
Super 16g Turbo
Custom made intercooler piping
Front mount Intercooler
HKS super sequential Blow off valve
"8 injector" Fuel system, controlled by an 034efi controller
Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump
Full fuel system plumbed in 6an braided stainless lines.
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust
3 stage boost control (adjustable between 3 boost levels while driving)
Currently running 18-20 psi capable of a lot more if the turbo was upgraded
Currently tuned rich, runs fine, but needs finely tuned
Autometer Ultralite Gauges
Pyrometer/EGT
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressure
Boost/Vacuum
5 speed Trans with 3.55 gears
QUAIFE Limited Slip Diff
Clutchmaster Stage 4 Clutch

******** Needs a wideband gauge installed for at least long enough to tune the 034efi controller

Body

Full Urethane TC2 body kit Front,sides and rear Fully molded into the body
Custom Paint similar to the original stock color but extra pearls were addded
Carbon Fiber Hood
Shaved Body moldings
Tail lights and mirrors painted body color
Droped 2 inches on eibach springs and agx's
Front Upper Strut tower bar - (had a neuspeed - but i would likely include a new DMS Strut tower bar)
Wheels - 17" Konig Holes in good condition, no real damage. Tires in poor condition
4 brand new tires included

****** Would be willing to adjust price and sell without wheels and tires included (stock steel wheels would be included instead to get the car home or bring your own.
****** Trunk lid has the lip spoiler molded into the trunk, the molding is cracked and therefor the paint is cracked, It is noticable but not majorly bad in my opinion. Would be a great car to intall a CF trunklid onto.

Interior and Audio

Mostly grey interior
Corbeau Non-reclining racing seats. They have been re-covered in a black and grey material
Backseat re-covered to match the fronts
4 point Corbeau harnesses
Alpine Headunit
Phoenix Gold 600 watt amp for Subs
Phoenix Gold 4x75 watt amp for other speakers
2 12" Infinity Perfect 12 subs
Infinity 6x9's in the rear
infinify 6.1 Components in the front.
8" (not 100% certian of the size) widescreen video monitor mounted in the original heating control location. Controls are relocated to where the power mirror controls normally are. power mirrors and cruise control and all heating controls are still funtional.
Battery relocaed to the trunk
Smaller Odyssey battery.


***** There are some issues with the speakers. rears are good if i recall correctly. one front tweater and one front speaker i believe are blown.
***** The fiberglassed piece of the center console that houses the video monitor needs redone. It works as is but is not the best.
***** I am willing to negotiate a price that would not include the amps, subs, and head unit

There are more smaller things i did not list, talk to me and i will go over the details and minor mods as i think of them.

(IMG:http://catalog.disturbingmotorsports.com/images/IMG_3326%20copy%20(Small).jpg)
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/gallery_6885_2_862.jpg)
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/gallery_79_329_104810.jpg)
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/gallery_79_329_110832.jpg)


Lots more pics here CLICK ME

ASKING $7500 OBO right now - if i keep it till spring or summer i will be less willing to sell and will likely want to ask more for it.
The engine, turbo, and trans alone cost me over 10K to build.

How-to Check For Spark

Thanks and credit to Mopar McNeer for the pictures and info compiled into this write-up
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/toothy7.gif)

Allthough this was written for a 4 cylinder the method is very similar for the v6 unfortunately you can only really do this on the front 3 cylinders.



If your engine has a miss or your car will not start and you do not know the cause, one of the first questions you may be asked is whether or not you have spark.

This is something you can check with one very basic tool a little tape, and a helper.

1. Pull one plug wire up off of a spark plug.

2. Insert a philips screwdriver into the end of the spark plug wire, it will snugly fit into where the top of the spark plug snaps into

3. Place the spark plug wire and screwdriver on the valve cover and secure it, have the screwdriver about 1/4" away from the surface of the valve cover. Preferably close to a bolt head or other unpainted bare metal part.
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/gallery_79_329_20619.jpg)

4. Have your helper crank the cars engine while you look closely at the shaft of the screwdriver and watch for sparks from the screwdriver to the valve cover.
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/gallery_79_329_11694.jpg)

5. Repeat for all other cylinders as necessary

How-to Check For Spark

Thanks and credit to Mopar McNeer for the pictures and info compiled into this write-up
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/toothy7.gif)



If your engine has a miss or your car will not start and you do not know the cause, one of the first questions you may be asked is whether or not you have spark.

This is something you can check with one very basic tool a little tape, and a helper.

1. Pull one plug wire up off of a spark plug.

2. Insert a philips screwdriver into the end of the spark plug wire, it will snugly fit into where the top of the spark plug snaps into

3. Place the spark plug wire and screwdriver on the valve cover and secure it, have the screwdriver about 1/4" away from the surface of the valve cover. Preferably close to a bolt head or other unpainted bare metal part.
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/gallery_79_329_20619.jpg)

4. Have your helper crank the cars engine while you look closely at the shaft of the screwdriver and watch for sparks from the screwdriver to the valve cover.
(IMG:http://aseclub.net/forums/gallery/1157417170/gallery_79_329_11694.jpg)

5. Repeat for all other cylinders as necessary

Repairing loose and rattling windows

The following is by DSMtalk.com Community Member 16g-95GSX

Fix the 2G window rattle

As almost all 2g owners know, when your windows are down and you shut the doors, it sounds as if they are about to fall apart. It's enough to make you cringe when you hear it. What most DSMers don't seem to realize, is just how easy it is to fix this problem! This article shows you exactly how with pictures for each step.



Thanks to a few other DSMers I was able to fix my rattle for free and with little effort. While I was at it, I went ahead and took some pictures to show you guys, so here goes:

Items you will need:

1) 10mm shallow socket
2) socket wrench
3) vise grips or other clamping device
4) phillips head screwdriver
5) flat head screwdriver

First thing, roll your window down about 3/4's of the way like shown here in this picture:
(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000495b.JPG)

Next you are going to have to remove the stock door panel. The panel is held on by about 6 screws total, and a few plastic clips. Most of the screws are located underneath tiny plastic caps that are camouflaged with the door panel itself. To take these caps off, just get a very thin tipped flat-head screwdriver and then pry them off.

(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000497b.JPG)
(Pry all of these caps off)

Remove all of the screws underneath and then proceed on to the inner door handle, removing both the screw behind the handle itself, and the one below the cap in the cupped portion of the door.

(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000493b.JPG)
(Pry the cap off, and remove the screw in the cup portion of the door)

Once those are removed, slide the plastic piece behind the door handle toward the front of the car, and then remove it.

(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000492b.JPG)
(Remove the screw behind the handle, and then slide the plastic trim piece towards the front of the car and remove it)

Now you can remove the actual door panel itself. Just pull it with your hand, starting in one of the top corners of it, and slowly working your way around the door, until it pops right off. Now disconnect the wiring harness that connects to the door switches, by pressing in on the tab and pulling outwards.
Careful as this harness for some reason sometimes is a pain to get out, and also the dsm switch panel is very delicate and you can easily break the plastic where the screws connect to the door panel itself, causing your switches to actually fall out of the door panel, which isn't a good thing if you've experienced it. So be gentle, but remove the harness. Once you have done this then set the door panel aside where it won't get damaged.

Now that that is off, remove the 4 screws holding in the black plastic trim around your speaker. You could remove the speaker's screws, but you might as well just remove the black trim screws instead and give yourself much more room to work with.

(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000491b.JPG)
(Remove the screws around the black trim piece)

Pull the speaker out, and set it on top of something, so that it isnt just simply hanging there from the door. I used a good old aristocrat box to set it on top of .

(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000485b.JPG)
(A nice big hole)

Now that that is done, look inside the hole towards the front of the car, and there you will see a brass colored bracket connected to the window. This is the source of all your dreaded rattle. The plastic clips on this bracket slowly expand over time, allowing the window to begin rattling. Reach in through this hole with a socket wrench and 10mm shallow socket, and remove the one nut holding the bracket on. Carefully pull the bracket out, making sure not to get any grease on the actual window itself.

(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000489b.JPG)
(Remove this one 10mm nut and carefully slide the bracket out)

Here it is, the stupid plastic clip.
(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000480b.JPG)

Take a nice set of vise grips or thick pliers and just clamp it down
some so that the plastic is closer together. That is it. Task complete!

(IMG:http://filebox.vt.edu/users/chlamber/Window%20Rattle/IM000482b.JPG)
(Clamp this plastic so it looks like this)

Now there has also been some talk about adjusting the felt pads that cushion the window up top. Your pads aren't necessarily off, but if you wish to attempt to adjust them then they are located at the top of the door. They will have allen wrench holes, as well as 10mm nuts surrounding them. Play with them if you wish, but I found mine to not need any adjustment at all.

Screw back in the speaker, plug back in the wiring harness to the door panel, install the door panel being sure to have every plastic clip correctly snap into place, reinstall the door handle piece, and re-screw in all the screws that held the door in, and you are done. Go ahead and test her out, I assure you she will be 10x better and you will be extremely satisfied with the results, as it literally takes 5 minutes if you know what you are doing before you start. Good Luck!

BONUS:
**In addition to this, while your door panels are off, you may want to do yourself a favor and pick up a can of "Great Stuff" expanding foam from Lowe's or Home Depot. This stuff costs about $5 a can, and it will make your panels in your car solid as an absolute rock. Spray a hefty amount on the back of your door panel, in all the cracks, making sure to hit all the areas that creak really bad. Do not spray too much as it will expand as it dries, but apply a good amount, covering the door all over on the back side.
I did this trick to my door panel, at the same time as doing this window rattle fix, and dear lord I have to say my doors are honestly 100x better, as even the door panel itself is solid as a rock, and there will be absolutely no rattle coming from your speakers etc. You can try this trick to all your other plastic panels in the car such as the hatch panels etc.
It works wonders, and an entire can weighs in at only 1lb so there is almost no detrimental weight added to the car, and when done you won't even know it is in there when the panels are on. This will make your car virtually rattle proof for almost no cost, and little weight added. Just be sure to wear latex gloves when applying this stuff as it WILL NOT COME OFF OF YOUR HANDS , and I found out the hard way.
Let the foam cure, and then put the panels back on. Do not apply too much foam on the area that the door handle rods will be as they will rub against it and make an irritating squeeking noise.**